Bass Phillip Estate Pinot Noir Magnum 1.5L 2021

Deep-ish ruby with good purple rim and a discreetly foresty, complex bouquet enshrining dried herbs, forest underbrush, some earthy savoury notes. There's dark cherry to plum with hints of fivespice similar to the Premium bottling. The palate is deep and well structured, concentrated and driving. The tannins are insistent and firm, well balanced with the weight and power of the fruit. A majestic wine that will blossom if given more time in bottle. Tremendous length, a lovely deep-set core of sweet fruit, and a satisfyingly climactic finish.

If you are labelled 'Reserve', there’s a reputation to live up to and, as it turns out, this is the nirvana of the suite of BP pinot noirs. As complex, as detailed and as precise as you can get. Heady forest floor aromas, the fragrance of this vineyard, dark fruit, black tea, Middle Eastern spices and star anise with a dusting of cocoa. It keeps giving. The full-bodied palate is superbly textured and coated in ripe, velvety tannins, cedary oak and refreshing acidity. Of course, this is just starting out on its journey, lucky those who can watch this mature. I tip my hat to legendary winemaker John Durham, who came in a few years ago to help Philip Jones finish his last vintage. But the global pandemic and subsequent lockdowns and lockouts meant he has been much more than a caretaker since. John has cared for and nurtured these vines and wines as if they were his own. Bravo.