Vincent Chaperon is now firmly ensconced as Dom Pérignon’s chef de caves, his former master’s voice and influence never far away – both in a flamboyant and somewhat philosophical turn of phrase (this wine has ‘impulsion and magnetism’) and also in almost unparalleled winemaking genius. 2006 is the fifth consecutive Rosé released by Dom Perignon, an unprecedented flush of brilliance. It’s the child of a warmer vintage, closer in style to the ‘05 and the ‘03 than the cooler ‘04, but better than both in my mind.

This may be partly explained by the fact that in 2006, a new winery dedicated to red wine was up and running. The red wine is fundamental to the personality of the rosé, and 20% has been added to the 2006 rosé, from three villages only (Hautvillers, Aÿ and Bouzy).

Its personality contributes to a magnificently harmonious assemblage, born out of diversity and inherent tension.