'A short name for the largest (by far) of the deluxe Cuvees, with an unknown (but huge) number of components adding up to 52% pinot noir and 48% Chardonnay. Free of taint, it sends shivers up the spine, shimmering in its purity and intensity, lemon citrus the first and last flavours, with nectarine, pear and spice on the mid-palate.'

The 2004 Dom Pérignon continues to develop beautifully. A vibrant, focused Champagne, the 2004 clearly reflects the personality of the year. Freshly cut flowers, white peaches and pears are woven together in a Champagne that impresses with its focus and energy. Chiselled saline notes support the crystalline finish. The 2004 will appeal most to readers who find the 2002 and 2003 too exuberant. There is a lot to like in the glass.