Domaine Dujac in Burgundy was acquired by Jacques Seysses in 1967. The Domaine in Morey-St-Denis had 4 hectares of vineyards and he has subsequently built it up to 11.5 hectares. Domaine Dujac now includes holdings in Clos de la Roche, Clos St-Denis, Bonnes-Mares, Echézeaux, and Charmes-Chambertin. "Use knowledge and technology to counter accidents - for example, bad weather - but, if all is going well, don't interfere," says Seysses, and this principle guides much of what happens in the vineyards and the cellars. Dujac wines are neither filtered nor fined and all of his premiers and grand crus are aged in 100% new oak. These are wines of the very highest order.
The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is serious, unwinding in the glass with scents of raspberries, cherries, woodsmoke, orange rind, and petals that are framed by a deft touch of new oak. Full-bodied, velvety, and concentrated, it's a bit more overtly structured than the Domaine's Echézeaux (which preceded it in this tasting), with a tightly wound core and chalky back-end grip.
Here too the floral elements take centre stage on the earthier and more Sauvage-inflected dark pinot fruit and underbrush scents. There is also a relatively sleek mid-palate to the slightly bigger and tautly muscular flavours that firm up quickly on the youthfully austere and borderline rustic finale where a touch of warmth slowly emerges. At least some patience will be required.