A discreet touch of wood frames exceptionally fresh and bright aromas of ripe citrus, oyster shell, tangerine and white flower that are very much in keeping with the refined, detailed and quite powerful middle-weight flavours that are a good deal less evolved compared to the rest of the range and culminate in a palate staining finish. I like the underlying material and in 2009 this massive yet perfectly balanced effort is the star of the cellar.