Owned by the family of the Comte Armand since 1825, Clos des Epeneaux is among Pommard’s most revered vineyards. Post-phylloxera, it wasn’t replanted until 1930. Further vineyards were acquired in ’94: Auxey-Duresses, Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru, Volnay, and Volnay’s Frémiets.
The modern era effectively began with Pascal Marchand, who was succeeded as a winemaker by Benjamin Leroux. When Ben left in 2014 to focus on his own business, Paul Zinetti took the reins. Clos des Epeneaux is one of the 10 largest premier or grand cru monopolies of the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. Although situated in the heart of the Grands and Petits Epeneaux, this parcel has a fairly different geology from its neighbours. Both powerful and refined, the resulting wines are the quintessence of what Pinot Noir can express. The hint of spices is also characteristic of Clos des Epeneaux.
The 2019 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru was picked over three days starting with the young vines on 14 September. This is almost completely de-stemmed and matured in around 40% new oak. It has a very intense bouquet with black cherries, blueberries, crushed limestone, traces of violet, and blood orange. The palate is very well balanced, quite opulent in style with a saline, briny note on the entry. Very good depth, fleshier in style than recent vintages with brown spices and cloves towards the persistent finish. I suspect that this might be more approachable than other vintages of Clos des Epeneaux but it will still age with style.
Zanetti divides the Clos des Epéneaux into four sections, which are all fermented and matured separately and then assembled. The assemblage of the three is the most compelling, with a mix of violet notes and expressive cherry fruit aromas on the attack, plus mineral, spice, and saline notes that develop with time. There is plenty of body, but little of the tannic, slightly rustic character for which Pommard can be known.