William Fèvre Bougros Cote Bouguerots Chablis Grand Cru 2019

The 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots is brilliant, unwinding in the glass with notes of warm bread, crisp orchard fruit, beeswax, and oyster shell. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and concentrated, with huge reserves of chalky structure and an incisive spine of acidity. It concludes with a finish of almost disconcerting intensity. Again, this is a very tightly wound young wine, cropped at only 29 hectoliters per hectare, and it will require and reward patience. I left my tasting with Didier Séguier wondering if the 2019s might be the best vintage I've ever tasted at Domaine William Fèvre. At this address, the vintage's low yields have translated to wines of remarkable concentration, but Séguier has also achieved levels of cut and tension that are rare in contemporary Chablis. My only reservation (if one can call it that) is that these are serious, structured wines that are tightly wound and introverted after their recent bottling, a tendency no doubt amplified by their DIAM closures; therefore, many are surely destined to be drunk too young. But readers who purchase Fèvre's top 2019s and forget them for more than a decade are going to be richly rewarded, of that I'm confident. Aside from the quality of the 2019 vintage, the other big news here is that Fèvre is converting to organic farming, an ambitious and admirable project for this 78-hectare Domaine.