The 2008 Brut Millésimé from Charles Hedsieck continues to perform superbly, opening in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of pear, yellow apple, citrus oil, honeycomb, dried white flowers, and warm biscuits. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep, and incisive, with a racy spine of acidity, a pinpoint mousse, excellent concentration, and a long, elegantly chalky finish. This 2008 is still several years from showing all its cards, but it is a brilliant Champagne in the making.