Luciano Sandrone Barolo Aleste 2020

The name of the wine may have changed, but Sandrone’s flagship Barolo is still, and will remain, 100% Cannubi Boschis, the Barolo vineyard synonymous with this grower. The Boschis subzone sits near the northern end of the Cannubi hill directly across from the Sandrone cellars. Sandrone farms 1.9 hectares of 40-year-old vines in the Cru, which has a particularly good south and southeast exposure in a small amphitheatre or “conca” that helps hold warmth in the early morning. Its soils are sea deposits of calcareous clay with sand and, therefore, have excellent drainage.

Highlighting the uniqueness of the wines from this terroir compared to the rest of the Cannubi hill, Alessandro Masnaghetti’s L’Enciclopedia delle Grandi Vigne del Barolo writes: “The wines, in general, have good body, much elegance, and more polished tannins than other Cannubi wines.” The winemaking is identical to Le Vigne, aside from a little longer on skins. While both are extraordinary, the stylistic contrast is clear as day. Where Le Vigne is lifted and perfumed, arcing towards the sky, Aleste is of the earth: a deeper, darker, textured and yet more mineral Barolo.

Sandwiched between two classical vintages, the beautifully scented and textured 2020 Aleste is a lesson in harmony, youthful generosity and flesh. It’s not as structured as 2019 and possesses slightly less core intensity than 2021. Instead, we have an almost Gevrey-like Barolo of aromatic complexity and a palate offering layered flavours of marasca cherry, dark stones and spice complemented by long, gentle tannins. Class before power and a wine of great finesse.