Its really hard to imagine how a white Brugundy could be more flinty and minerally than this super-concentrated and super-vibrant Chevalier Montrachet. Lovely aromas of lemon blossom, jasmine, tangerine and nectarine, alongside all the stony stuff. Then comes the staggeringly long finish that is totally pure and precise. From Bouchard’s 2.3-hectare holding, which comprises almost a third of the entire Grand Cru site. Drink or hold.

Bouchard's 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru confirms its fine showing last year, unwinding in the glass with scents of pear, citrus oil, and toasted bread, complemented by hints of nutmeg, praline, and white flowers. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's satiny and incisive, with terrific depth at the core, chalky structuring extract, lively acids, and a long, resonant finish. This is as compelling an infant Chevalier as I can remember tasting at this address, and it should enjoy a brilliant future.

The usual blend of the four terraces, the 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet featuring delicate scents of yellow plum, citrus fruit, flint, and smoke. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Quite taut on the entry, and a fine saline undertow enlivens the finish. A classically styled Chevalier, though I would like to see more mineralité.