Gary Farr is one of Australia’s Pinot pioneers and knows more about Pinot than anyone! He began at Bannockburn wines in the ’80s and with his son Nick (combined) they have done 20 vintages at Domaine Dujac in Morey-St-Denis in Burgundy. Their vineyard (planted in 1994) is located at Bannockburn (near Geelong) and planted on volcanic soils over limestone. Their winemaking influence is very Burgundian (natural yeast, whole bunch fermentation and long maceration for the reds) to produce wines that reflect their terroir with pure primary fruit characters and savoury depth, structure and longevity. I regard their Pinots and Chardonnay as up there with the best in the land. …Their wines are rated in the Top Ten wines in their categories every year in James Halliday’s Australian Wine Companion.

Tout Pres was planted in 2001 and is a very special and intriguing site. It rises above the other vineyards, and each of the three slopes consists of a different soil type. The largest slope is black volcanic soil over limestone; the second is quartz gravel mixed with red ironstone; the third is an iron strand in grey sandy loam. The clones, which will acclimatise and mutate over time to become the ‘Tout Pres clone’, are 113, 114, 115, 667, 777 and MV6.

With 7300 vines per half-acre, Tout Pres is the most densely planted vineyard on the estate—hence its name, which translates as “very cosy”. This land is a challenge to farm, but well worth the effort. The soils and close competition force the vines to work hard, with the result being a fruit that is lush but masculine, and which provides the coveted structure found only in the most age-worthy wines.

Tout Pres is made using the same process as the other two pinots. It is fermented with 100 per cent whole bunches (80 per cent in 2011) in a five-tonne oak fermenter. This wine has the largest flavour profile and intensity, to absorb 100 per cent new French oak from Allier. A wine with truly understated power and richness—the classic peacock’s tail.

With every year that passes, the Tout Pres vineyard’s subtleness and delicate fruit structure are becoming increasingly pronounced in the wine. The bouquet fills the glass with spicy fruit, mineral elements and a hint of integrated French oak, with the darkness and essence of the Moorabool Valley true expressions of the site. This wine exhibits primary and secondary flavours, which strengthen the overall integration for a seamless finish. It is a tightly packed combination of plums and undergrowth with an edgy acidity—and one of our favourite drops.