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Introducing Fratelli Giacosa: Next Stop On Our Wine Odyssey
Giacosa is a famous name in Piedmont, one which, if truth be told, makes most wine lovers immediately think of the wines of Bruno Giacosa. It has meant that wines from this large family operation, situated the proverbial stone’s throw away from their more famous sibling in the village of Neive, have snuck under the radar. On one hand, this is a shame as they deserve better. On the other, it has meant opportunities for savvy buyers. Of course, as mentioned, this is a large producer so many are already enjoying the fruits, so to speak.
15 February 2024
A Storybook History
This branch of the Giacosa family dates back to the end of the 19th century when four brothers, Leone, Giovanni Battista, Costantino and Giuseppe, moved from Costigliole d’Asti to Neive, in the heart of the Langhe, in order that they may work as sharecroppers. Their subsequent history could be the plot for a Ken Follett novel – Leone perished thanks to a hunting accident; Giovanni Battista became the Parish Priest of Caramagna; while Costantino joined the national gendarmerie, the Arma dei Carabinieri, while his son gained international fame as the designer of the Fiat Cinquecento.
This left just Giuseppe whose dream was to make wine from the hills of his birth. In 1895, he heard of the perfect cellar, located in Borgonuovo di Neive, but it was for the immense, to him, sum of 3,000 Italian Lira. Giuseppe knew it would remain beyond his dreams. Or perhaps not.
Making Dreams a Reality
That evening, it was those very dreams that made his desires come true. He dreamt of a set of numbers. Next day, he played those very numbers in the National Lottery. Fact always being weirder than fiction, you guessed it, the numbers came up and Giuseppe bought the wine cellar. If it is not true, it should be.
Resilience
Years later, having made it through two world wars, Leone’s sons, Valerio, and Renzo, took over the business. They moved from selling their wine in barrel to demijohns to bottles. In the 1990’s, the next generation took the reins. Valerio’s son, Maurizio, and Renzo’s son, Paolo, took over. They increased the vineyards, especially from the top regions. Today, they have fifty hectares under their control. They have now been joined by yet another generation with Maurizio’s sons, Alessandro and Mauro, and Paolo’s children, Lorenzo, and Anna, on board.
Reviving History: Bridging the Past to the Present
The aim is to combine the traditional winemaking methods with modern technology and innovation. It has allowed them to reach a significant level of production annually.
Currently, Europe and the US are their top markets. Their Arneis is an exceptionally fine example of what this white variety can achieve, while their Barbera d’Alba Bussia reveals the glories of a good Barbera. The entire range is appealing, at all levels. As well as grapes from their own vineyards, they do purchase supplies as well, but always the same vineyards. Oak is part barrique and part large format. While I enjoyed their wines across the range, the absolute star for me was the Barolo Scarrone Vigne Mandorlo Riserva 2013.
An Estate Worth Seeking Out
An estate which might slip through the cracks for some, but one worth seeking out and taking advantage of the excellent array of wines they offer.
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About The Author
Ken Gargett
15 February 2024Born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. A non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. Law at Queensland Uni. On a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, someone opened a good bottle of port and so commenced a serious obsession. Studied in London, then worked London, Washington DC and Sydney in banking law (pleased to be out of that now, even if my bank manager disagrees). Returned to Queensland and was asked to do some occasional wine writing by friends who knew of the obsession. Eventually, fortunately, it took over.
Needless to say, I am a grave disappointment to my family. My mother once, when told I was off to a 'vertical tasting', was overheard muttering ‘at least you'd think these people could afford chairs’. Later, she severely chastised me, for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted I’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. It has not been easy.
Now, I mostly write on wine and spirits for Drinks, Explore, AGT Wine Magazine, UK World of Fine Wine, Fine Group, tastingbook.com. Did weekly columns for the Courier Mail for many years, plus various mags, spitbucket.com, etc. I do a little on cigars (this blog, obviously, and quillandpad.com), fishing, travel and food. When not writing, I’ll either be fly-fishing, travelling, or passionately following a variety of too-often dismal sporting teams – Queensland Reds rugby, Washington Redskins, Arsenal and our occasionally glorious Aussie cricket team.
—KBG.
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