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Presenting Podere La Cappella: Another Stop On Our Wine Odyssey
In San Donato in Poggio in Tuscany, there are some superb estates making wonderful Chianti. Isole e Olena is probably the most well-known, but their neighbour is making some cracking wines that are drawing attention from around the globe. Podere La Cappello is an organic producer which has been making their own wines since 1995, although the Rossini family have owned the property since 1979.
15 February 2024
A Secret Wine With A Not So Secret History
The place positively reeks of history. In one corner, there is an old chapel, the Santa Maria a Cerbaia which dates back to 1076 and which has a painting in it of the Madonna and child, believed to have been there since the late thirteenth century. This was also the first time in my life I actually saw a bergamot. I was familiar with the aromas – that alluring mix of Earl Grey tea and zesty citrus, but to be honest, I had no idea what a bergamot was. Turns out to be a form of citrus which is native to Italy and looks like a combination of a lumpy lemon and lime, though these were nearly grapefruit in size.
Bruno Rossini (Who Is He?)
When Bruno Rossini purchased the estate in 1979, it was dedicated to apple and pear orchards. He quickly planted vines and olives. They now have 13 hectares of vines and have retained a hectare of pears for distillation. The estate sits at 350 metres above sea level. The soil is a mix of calcareous stones, marl and what the locals call alberese, which is limestone heavily infused with marl. They have been certified organic since 1998. While Bruno still works on the property, his daughter Natascia is now in control. Up to 1995, Bruno sold the grapes. Now, they make some of the region’s top wines.
A First In The Region
They offer a local version of Vermentino, being the first in the region to grow this grape. They made it till 1999, when they decided to jump on the Merlot bandwagon and grafted the vines to that grape. After time, they realised that the Vermentino was a success and grafted them back, with the first wine appearing in 2014. Production ranges between 25,000 and 30,000 bottles, most destined for Italy. The family’s friendship with legendary artist (the man has a museum devoted to him in Florence), Antonio Manzi, has led to some wonderful labels.
Elegant Style
Natascia spoke to us of recent vintages, noting that they had not had a bad one of late, with fingers crossed for 2023 (in process at the time). She understands that some customers prefer the big, warm years like 2020 and 2015, while others opt for the freshness and elegance found in years such as 2021, 2018 and 2016. Their aim is for that fresh and elegant style with good acidity and soft tannins. The estate uses zero new oak.
Oldest Vines
Their oldest vines go to a wine called Corbezzolo, 100% Sangiovese, which they have offered since 1995. Their Riserva is called Querciolo, and they also offer a 100% Merlot called Cantico. The estate also made an amazing one-off Merlot from the 2008 vintage, dubbed Bruno, as a tribute to the founder, Bruno Rossini. It is a stunning wine, should you ever get the chance to try it, although as only 400 bottles were ever made, you’ll be lucky. They also offer a Vin Santo.
The Secret Is Out...
This wonderful estate in Tuscany may not yet be as well-known as their famous neighbours, but the time is coming.
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About The Author
Ken Gargett
15 February 2024Born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. A non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. Law at Queensland Uni. On a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, someone opened a good bottle of port and so commenced a serious obsession. Studied in London, then worked London, Washington DC and Sydney in banking law (pleased to be out of that now, even if my bank manager disagrees). Returned to Queensland and was asked to do some occasional wine writing by friends who knew of the obsession. Eventually, fortunately, it took over.
Needless to say, I am a grave disappointment to my family. My mother once, when told I was off to a 'vertical tasting', was overheard muttering ‘at least you'd think these people could afford chairs’. Later, she severely chastised me, for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted I’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. It has not been easy.
Now, I mostly write on wine and spirits for Drinks, Explore, AGT Wine Magazine, UK World of Fine Wine, Fine Group, tastingbook.com. Did weekly columns for the Courier Mail for many years, plus various mags, spitbucket.com, etc. I do a little on cigars (this blog, obviously, and quillandpad.com), fishing, travel and food. When not writing, I’ll either be fly-fishing, travelling, or passionately following a variety of too-often dismal sporting teams – Queensland Reds rugby, Washington Redskins, Arsenal and our occasionally glorious Aussie cricket team.
—KBG.
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