his can be one of the best Chateau Thivin wines, unforced and pretty really. Fine tannin, gravel and dried cherry, detail of earth and dried herbs and a sense of minerality. Spot on. It’s succulent and long, bright and fresh yet also savoury. It’s such a delicious wine. Juicy, earthy, red fruits, light ferrous notes, orange citrus characters. Fine grip through the wine but with fruitiness. Far out. The whole thing drinks with such charm. Elegant and beautiful drinking, with regional character on show. I’m all over it. Such an outstanding drink. Crikey.

The 2021 Côte de Brouilly has turned out nicely, mingling aromas of cherries and berries with notions of burning embers and forest floor. Medium-bodied, fleshy and vibrant, with a lively core of fruit, powdery tannins and a sapid, saline finish, it marks a return to a more classically proportioned style after several richer, riper vintages.