10 Min Read
The New California
For Lovers of Californian Wines, we have a limited number of rare & exciting Californian treasures in the Reserve Cellar
22 March 2022
In recent years, there has been a wine revolution taking place in California and Oregon, with a host of exceptionally talented growers and winemakers breaking away from the old-fashioned template for big, powerful, alcoholic, point scoring wines. Over the past decade, their drive for balance, elegance and finesse has helped re-shape the winemaking landscape of the USA, and the best of these new producers are being lauded by international wine critics as some of the most exciting anywhere in the world today. At the core of this evolution was an organisation called ‘In Pursuit of Balance’ (IPOB), founded in 2011 by Jasmine Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyards and Rajat Parr of Domaine de la Cote, and built on the work of viticulturist Steve Matthiasson and cool site pioneers Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Roberts over the preceding decade. Controversial at the time (indeed, ridiculed by one particularly famous wine critic…) this group of producers sought a different direction with their wines, both in the vineyard and the winery. IPOBThey strove for balance, non-manipulation in the cellar, and the promotion of the fundamental varietal characteristics which make Pinot Noir and Chardonnay great – subtlety, poise and the ability of these grapes to serve as profound vehicles for the expression of terroir. We are delighted to offer new vintages from the amazing Californian growers that we work with. These are some of the most exciting in our Reserve Cellar, and some of the most eagerly anticipated each year.
Winemaker of the Year: San Francisco Chronicle and Food & Wine Magazine.
Steve and Jill Matthiasson, since the 2003 founding of their winery, have not only practiced viticulture and enology in a style that made them one of the earliest proponents of ‘new California winemaking,’ but demonstrated their understanding that the human component of winemaking extends far beyond the winemaker. Steve’s notoriety as one of the United States’ most intuitive American viticulturists and most sought-after vineyard managers speaks to his continued forward momentum of working cleanly in his vineyards and encouraging others to do the same.
"The Hirsch family's Sonoma Coast estate is undoubtedly one for the great vineyard sites in the United States." Antonio Galloni
It would be impossible to overstate the impact and legacy of David Hirsch on the viticultural scene in the United States. When he bought his remote ranch, perched high on the very cool Sonoma Coast, in 1978 there wasn't a vineyard for miles around, but his decision to plant Pinot Noir in 1980 established him as one of California's new viticultural pioneers. In 2002, with a full understanding of his vineyard gained over nearly 20 vintages, Hirsch decided to build a winery and bottle the best parcels of fruit under his own label. There is huge complexity of soil and topography across the vineyard, with 67 individual blocks being picked and vinified separately each year. Jasmine Hirsch, David's daughter and one of the most insightful and considerate winemakers you will ever meet, now runs the estate. The process of farming to enable an early harvest has been honed over many vintages, ensuring terroir is never masked by ripeness, and delivering wines of refinement, grace and intensity of flavour without weight. Now fully biodynamic, winemaking has been decidedly hands-off from the outset, and the resulting Pinot Noir - more earthy, more savoury, and with a remarkable ability to age and develop in the cellar - are some of the most highly praised and sought after in the United States.
“David Ramey is one of California’s best and most respected winemakers. In the early 1990s he was the winemaker at Dominus, and then at Rudd. But for over a decade he has run his own winery, sourcing fruit from outstanding vineyards. setting up his own label allowed him to return to his first love: making Chardonnay.” - Stephen Brook
After making wine at Château Pétrus, Dominus, Chalk Hill and Rudd Estate, David Ramey settled into his own brand in 1996 and focused on Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa and Chardonnay from Sonoma. The wines, as he says, are "bold, but in check." They’re intense, vibrant and refined. Antonio Galloni: “It’s hard to know where to begin with these wines from David Ramey, as there are so many highlights, but one common theme is the quality of the entry-level wines. The appellation-level Chardonnays and Claret deliver serious quality for the money.”
In Jancis Robinson MW’s words, “these are wines that eschew the heavy-handed, overripe approach of so many Californian producers. They are beautifully elegant, always refreshing and effortlessly drinkable.”
Made by Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman out of the Domaine de la Cote winery in the Santa Rita Hills. The Santa Rita Hills wines benefit from fruit that doesn’t make the cut at Domaine de la Cote, while the single vineyard offerings highlight the uniqueness of a handful of other sites in the appellation. In Jancis Robinson MW’s words, “these are wines that eschew the heavy-handed, overripe approach of so many Californian producers. They are beautifully elegant, always refreshing and effortlessly drinkable.” From Raj and Sashi: "Sandhi is dedicated to making wines of finesse, minerality, acidity, structure and balance. Wine achieves power and beauty through the seamless integration of these qualities, and this is the inspiration for us. We feel wines exhibiting extreme ripeness, alcohol, oak and other discordant exaggerations cannot truly express a specific vineyards’ terroir."
“Evening Land produces some of the best Chardonnay in not only Oregon, but all of North America, and their whole lineup showcases the impressive winemaking talents of Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman.” International Wine Report
The Willamette Valley in Oregon is often compared to Burgundy, for the challenging growing conditions, varietals planted, and the quality-minded smaller scale producers that have chosen to work here. It is therefore not surprising that super sommelier Raj Parr and winemaker Sashi Moorman, who bonded over their love for elegant European wines, decided to base their second joint venture here. The Evening Land estate, whose vineyard is known as ‘Seven Springs’ is planted overwhelmingly to Pinot Noir, followed by Chardonnay, and Gamay. The oldest own-rooted blocks of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are a testament to, and daily reminder of, Oregon’s incredible winemaking history. Benchmark Oregon producers have long sourced fruit from Seven Springs and the wines from this vineyard are the most decorated and award-winning Oregon wines.
Or let the Concierge put together a mixed case for you!
- Reserve Cellar Special Californian Mixed 6 bottles Case $556
- Reserve Cellar Special Californian Mixed 12 bottles Case $1390
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